So Good

Saturday was so good. Woke up a little late, loaded the car and hit the road. We ate chicken and cabbage piroshky at a coffee shop next to the ferry terminal. Two hours later and we’re in the water. There were a dozen people in the lineup. Two older gentlemen with a pair of matching longboards. One of them was a solid surfer. I watched him drop into a handful of head high waves. Karissa paddled out just as I caught my first. It was big. Easily overhead. But I didn’t do much with it. Second wave was bigger yet. Steep face. I dropped in, made a sharp turn and took a few steps forward. It was a long left.

By the time I caught my third wave I was comfortable with the swell size. Always takes a few. Managed to make my way to the nose, squatting to gain speed. A solid seven. The paddle back to the piling took a little while, though. Watched Karissa catch a nice overhead left. Spider stance to start, a late bottom turn, smooth down the line. She looked good. It eventually closed, but I could see her smiling from fifty feet.

My last few waves were considerably smaller than the first four. Walked to the nose on every one, though. Five over, then ten together, knees to chest Joel Tudor style. Another long left. Loved every minute of it. By the time we paddled in the swells had died down. Knee high at best. The right started going off, though. Watched a pair of guys paddle out, one atop an SUP the other on what appeared to be a ten foot triple stringer with a backwards D fin. Crazy shit. Watched them surf for a while before heading back to Seattle. Sushi for dinner.

Additional images are available here.