1/27/12

The Black Knight of Malibu

"My whole life is this escape; my whole life is this wave I drop into, set the whole thing up, pull off a bottom turn, pull up into it and shoot for my life, going for broke man. And behind me all this shit goes over my back: the screaming parents, teachers, police, priests, politicians, kneeboarders, windsurfers - they're all going over the falls headfirst into the reef; headfirst into the fucking reef, BWAH! And I'm shooting for my life. And when it starts to close out, I pull out to the bottom and out to the back, and I pick up another one and do the same goddamned thing again."

- Miki Dora

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