Don't get me wrong, I love shoulder high swells. But when they're small and shapely, knee to waist high, I seem to have the most fun. I take more time. Paddle into fewer waves. I look for the longest left, unwilling to settle for something short. I want enough time to make my way to the nose, to stand upright over Waikiki. Saturday was that sort of day. Small, shapely and shit loads of fun.
The first few were pretty small. Breaking close to shore, I had little time to do anything exciting.
After a few weekends fighting foul weather, it was nice to see the sun and surfable swells.
Yours truly enjoying one of many knee high peelers that rolled through the strait on Saturday.
Karissa made the most of every wave, rotating her 9' Stewart and surfing until her fin sunk into the sand.
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1 comment:
It was a blast man!
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