When You're Surfing Big Waves
When you’re surfing big waves, it forces you to focus on the surf. It kind of clears your mind. When the surf is smaller, you’re thinking about the guy next to you, the crowd. But big waves bring you back to the point where you don’t think about anything else. You’re just focused. Otherwise, hot dog surf is just drama for me. People want to challenge you to a surf-off in the water. Big waves allow me to keep that distance between all of that crap. It keeps people on the beach and I can be way outside.
- Tyler Hatzikian
1 comment:
I guess its all relative. Big waves for most are 6ft :)
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