The Wrong Recipe

It was windy when we woke up. And our tent was wet. Took over an hour to get our shit together. Grabbed coffee and a crepe before scoping a couple of spots. It wasn't working. Onshore wind made waves into white wash. It was ugly out there. Todd suggested another spot, somewhere there wouldn't be much wind. It's not the friendliest place to peel. But it can work. Especially when it's windy. A small swell with a reasonable rate of return. Five, maybe six waves in a set. A few minutes apart.

There were six or seven surfers in the water when we showed up. Wasting waves. I watched as one after another peeled past. Small boards just don't work well on small waves. It's the wrong recipe. So I suited up and paddled out. Took to the outside, against the rocks. First peak I paddled into was knee high. Up and at'em. Twas a long left on my log. Given what I'd seen scouting from shore, I didn't think I'd be sharing many waves. How wrong I was. A few photos for fun.


Weren't that many in the water...

I wonder which way he's goin?

Sky rockets in flight...

You've almost got it!

Nose to tail.

Shoulda broughta bigger board.

I stole waves for awhile.

Photos come courtesy of Karissa.