A Going Away Gift

I went away for a week. To the midwest for a motorcycle rally. Work and whatnot. But before I left on Sunday, we surfed. It wasn't what we expected to see when we showed up. There were signs - swells rolling through, strait and narrow, breaking on a beach we never see break. But this big?! A going away gift, clearly. So as soon as we parked, I slipped into my suit, grabbed the blue banana and paddled out as fast as fast as possible.


There were eight or nine people out already. A few I knew. Eric(k) from Oly and my friend Steve from Sequim. The first few waves I found were waist high, but by mid-morning it was tipping towards the top of my head. Just rotate and run to the nose.

Eric(k) was unreal. Every wave - all the way out. Composure. Noserider. Lost my stick in the soup at one point. Luckily Steve was on the inside to save it. I returned the favor a few hours later ;)

There was another Eric(k) who had a similar style. Knees bent a bit more on the end, but he made the most of every wave. A skilled surfer. I managed to hang five a few times. Nothing to write home about, though.

Twas one of the best days I've ever seen. Especially in the summer. Something to think about while suffering through hundred degree heat in Sedalia, Missouri. Can't wait to come home...

Click here for a few more photos.