Portrait of a Surfer

Filmed in Cornwall, a stretch of sand along the southwest coast of the United Kingdom, this short film, which comes courtesy of Swami's Surf Shop, offers an insightful glimpse into the mind of Sam Bleakley, an English author, explorer and two time European longboard champion.

That Backside Boogie

While competition continued at Cape Kiwanda, I suited up and paddled past the flag pole, just to the north of where everyone was waiting for waves. It was good and glassy. With waves from the northwest, pushing past a 327 foot tall stone that sits out at sea and breaking just a few feet from the beach. It was crowded by comparison, but I managed to make my way through the mess. These fuckers were fast, though. Standing up along the sandbars and breaking almost always to the right. I paddled the pig into everything I could, sitting on the outside so I had room to rotate. Dragging my fingers across the face, tucked in tightly, covered up completely. Some waves went my way. One threw my stick to shore. Left it lying belly-up beneath the tailgate of a truck. Suppose I still need to work on my backside boogie-woogie.

Custom Motorcycles & Classic Surfboards

Last month we celebrated something. Two Tribes, seemingly connected by their desire to disconnect, their desire to unplug from it all, to define their own aesthetic ideals. It was an idea, that these two types could come together and appreciate what the other has to offer. It was a celebration that had to happen. And as far as I can tell, it worked. We had a good time. One that lasted well into the evening. There were many motorcycles, lots of logs and next to no bullshit. Now, forty some days in the future, our friends at Curbsyde Productions have put together this short bit of film highlighting our event. So sit back and relive the revelry. And if you're interested, you can find a few images on Facebook.

Why Did We Wait?!

In my opinion, there are but a few places as picturesque as Pacific City. Sixty five and sunny, sand strewn streets and a brewery on the beach - what more do you want? So after an evening in Astoria, we headed south in search of surf. First stop was Seaside. Then a spot that nearly swallowed me whole. When we finally arrived around four on Friday, there were waist high waves and next to no one in the water. We drove down for the Cape Kiwanda Longboard Classic, an event I've attended a handful of times, unintentionally. And although I didn't enter, I was able to steal some wonderful waves, which made me wonder: why did we wait till September to surf down south?!

How To Van Camp

A short bit of film featuring my friend Foster, who shares his thoughts on #vanlife after having spent more than a year living in his Syncro Vanagon. Essential items include: avocados, an iPhone, tinted windows and the ability to pee in an orthostatic position. Video comes courtesy of Korduroy.TV

Build-A-Bed

After a couple of uncomfortable nights spent on the floor of Fargo the cargo van, Karissa and I decided we should build a bed before heading south to surf this weekend. Piece of cake, right? Right. With a general idea of what we wanted - tall enough for a few sticks to lay flat, long enough for two tubs to sit nut-to-butt and wide enough that we wouldn't have sleep sideways - we headed to Home Depot with some printed plans and plenty of enthusiasm.

After sorting through tons of timber and finding the right size wood screws, we headed to my grandparent's to put things into place. First came the frame; a two part structure consisting of four 20" tall boxes connected by two 66" long pieces of lumber. Once the frame was fitted, we cut ten 72" long 2x4s and set them two inches apart across the top. Then we secured everything using 3.5" wood screws. The end result: a 22" tall, 72" wide and 66" long sleeping platform perfect for two people!

Six On Sunday

I suppose it could have been better. But then again, it can always be a little bit better, right?. Maybe I'm mildly masochistic, but there's something satisfying about saying 'what the fuck' and pulling on a wet wetsuit shortly before sunset. Karissa didn't come out. Instead, she stayed ashore and snapped a few photos. There weren't many waves, but we made the most of it. When we pulled in and unpacked, the sun was sitting just above the tree line to our left. We managed to surf for an hour, maybe more, before it began to get dark. Was good and glassy, albeit small. God knows I wanted more waves.

Zola Jesus

What I've been listening to lately...

Fargo & The Foggy Waves

A loud knock woke me up Sunday morning. Joe, peering through Fargo's front window, was eager to see what the swell looked like. I climbed out from the comfort of our cargo van and wandered toward the water. A heavy fog was waiting... and waves! Small, glassy little bastards. I managed to slip into my Matuse and sneak out to sea without waking my wife. Joe, Charlie and I surfed waist high waves for maybe four hours. We called it quits when the wind picked up. Came ashore to find Karissa getting ready to go out. We kicked around camp for awhile before the three of them paddled back out. I stayed on shore to document the occasion. Follow the link for a few photos.

King Rat

Aaron Cervantes surfing somewhere down south. As seen on Almond Surfboards & Designs.

The Voyage of the Cormorant

Over the course of 22 months, Christian Beamish, a former editor at The Surfer's Journal, built an 18-foot Oughtred Ness Yawl in his single-car garage, and then sailed solo from San Diego to the southern part of the Baja Peninsula searching for surf and solitude. Published by Patagonia, The Voyage of the Cormorant chronicles Beamish's "low-tech, self-reliant exploration for surf along the coast of North America, using primarily clothes and instruments available to his ancestors." His journey, at least from what I've read, was an arduous one and is certainly worth reading about.

Sunny August

Joe Davies surfing somewhere sunny at the end of Summer. As seen on The Boda Surfamily blog.

Mustard or Kites?

Some strange questions came out around the campfire. "Mustard or kites?" being one of them. Wind was working all weekend, so we were without waves. Banana pancakes for breakfast followed by a couple'a cups of coffee. Then a calm in the crap came, so I stole Shawn's Surf Thump and paddled out for a few. And while there wasn't much to work with, I enjoyed every wave I had on that Almond - a burnt orange board, nine feet eight inches long, with tres largueros, a concave nose and glassed on D fin. Damn thing was delicious. A log everyone can love. Follow the link for a few more photos.

Wave Garden

From the film Gastrologging comes this short surfboarding excursion to the Wavegarden in San Sebastián, Spain - a man made wave making machine "for people not fortunate enough to have an ocean break nearby." It's the best bit of their film, as far as I'm concerned. Logs and little waves. Wonderful.

What Wonderful Waves

What wonderful waves we had, the Wednesday before our wedding. The swell was small, but them waves couldn't have been any better. Nehi Soda and some offshore wind. I surfed my dad's stick. A ten foot Mark Martinson that allows for big, silly bottom turns and effortless excursions to the end. Thursday saw more of the same shit. Offshore and ankle high. Summer sliding at its finest. My mother, who was in town for the wedding, took a few photos. Unfortunately, however, I was her only subject.

Getting Involved

Involvement era enthusiast, Matt Chojnacki, shredding some gnar at Noosa Heads.

Gonzo

“Let us toast to animal pleasures, to escapism, to rain on the roof and instant coffee, to unemployment insurance and library cards, to absinthe and good-hearted landlords, to music and warm bodies and contraceptives... and to the "good life", whatever it is and wherever it happens to be.”

- Hunter S. Thompson

"Nature rule, Daniel-san, not mine."

Ever wonder what'd happen if you gave your camera to a kid? Sunset shots. Candid captures. Macro flower photos. I was honestly impressed. And I didn't edit any of these images - Scout's Honor. His name is Daniel Levandosky, and he's the son of a friend, of a friend, of a friend. Or something similar. He's Russian, about four feet tall and talks all the time. But that's beside the point. It's all about opportunity. Seeing something in someone. Because nowadays everyone is encouraged to act in accordance. To behave. To buy the same shit. iPhone and Xbox. To fall in line. To be taught, sans self reliance. But this little bastard does things differently. And I like that. Follow the link for a few of his photos.

Thrift Shop

What I've been listening to lately...

Leashless Lifestyle

So-Fran surfer, Margaux Arramon-Tucoo, living that leashless lifestyle (via Hayley Gordon).

2012 Cape Kiwanda Longboard Classic

Wanted to remind everyone that the 2012 Cape Kiwanda Longboard Classic will take place in just two weeks; from Friday, September 21st through Sunday, September 23rd. The event, which is now in its 14th year, will be held in Pacific City, a small surf town some thirty miles south of Tillamook, Oregon.

Click here for additional information.

Laborless Day

In the Pacific Northwest, most people paddle out two times every ten months. Memorial Day and Labor Day. So, as you might imagine, I have a love/hate relationship with these three day shit shows. On the one hand, it was a wonderful weekend full of friends and family, warm weather and a small swell. It was also a weekend full of ferry waits, kooks and a crowded campground. I complain. But the sweet wouldn't be as sweet without the sour.

Saturday the surf was small. Real small. Four or five hours, a few waves, then we cooked food over a campfire, drank blackberry gin fizz shit and passed out prematurely. Sunday it stood up a bit. Spent seven hours in the surf. I let Joe talk me into a sunset session. The gods were good. Hips to head for an hour and a half. Hung my first five on that big pig bastard. What a way to end the weekend.