Sometimes you have to stay. See what happens. Make an investment and hope that it pays off. Saturday was one of them days. Was offshore all morning, thigh high, with consistent sets coming through. I surfed for six hours, coming ashore just long enough to stick my face in a bag full of ginger granola, unwilling to remove my gloves and grab a handful. It was good. The surf and the snack. Rode my ten foot
Feral Pig all afternoon. Plenty of time on the tip. My backside cross-step action needs some assistance, though. All in due time. Sunset was spectacular. A few hot dogs and a campfire before we called it quits.
