Hunger For It

"As you grow up, get mortgages and children, other things take its place. But that’s good because it makes you hungry. I am always keen to hit the water because I don’t over saturate. I never fulfill that desire to go surfing. I’ve always got a hunger for it. It’s the greatest physical pastime you can have. It’s like playing chess with the ocean, you are interacting with this incredible force of nature. You’re playing a game with it and it usually wins. But on smaller days you might get a win.”

- Bob McTavish