You gotta go back when it gets glassy. Forget that fucking sandwich. You can snack on some stoke! I really don't know what I was waiting for. Maybe it's cause I took a nice long shower after our first session - got me all warm and fuzzy feeling - standing in the sand, snapping photos of friends. But the "power of the waves" prevailed. I just couldn't resist. I'll be damned if it's not the drug, and I the junkie. So I put a wet wetsuit on around five after four. Paddled out and found a peak. Some windless waves, knee to waist high. No one else seemed to be enjoying them as much as myself. Big ass bottom turns. High and tight. Ten over atop a
proper pig. Jazzed the glass until it got dark. Goddamn it was good.
Pay Shack!
Shoulder.
So Close.
Sometime Soon.
Backside Boogie.
Crowded.
A little bit better...
Boogie Man!
Karissa_Would take all them images. Much appreciated.
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