An early evening allowed us to got outta bed a bit earlier. First thing on Friday. In the water around eight. No time to eat. There’s a four or five hour window without wind, as we’ve learned, so it's best to be out early. Funny, but I felt cold for the first time in four days. Water was warm, but that breeze will keep you cold - cold being relative of course. Mike and Tracy's 40th wedding anniversary was the next night. A pretty big party. In a pretty big house above the beach. Million plus with a pool. It was an opportunity to meet and eat with a lot of interesting people. The ever infamous Corky Carroll being one of them.
Waves were waist high when I woke up. Same slow shit. Peeling off the point. Perhaps not as powerful. That
BN Lightweight is a beautiful board. Trim high, stop and go, a few steps forward, faster and faster, then twinkle some toes, back before it closes. And then repeat. We were outta the water around 11:30am, had a couple of tortas con pollo and a Coke Light for lunch.
Fast forward a few days... I can’t thank our new found friend, Chris, enough for taking us to Commercial (co-mer-see-all) yesterday afternoon. He and his three kids - triplets, two boys and a girl - along with Karissa and myself, piled into a 1995(ish) Chevy Suburban and made our way outta town. It was all rocky roads and banging on the bump stops.
We spent an hour shopping, at least. Booze and beer and chips and cereal and bananas and more beer. Came back in time to see the sun set. Chris was kind enough to cook us dinner. Spaghetti with meat sauce - some much needed noodles. Dinner was followed by rum and Coke and lots of jokes.
We woke up early the following morning. Karissa made coffee while I split some pastries in half. In the water at half past eight. It was smaller than the day before, but still something to surf. I finally figured out how to shoot through the center section; drop all the way out in front, let it close, pull back up into the pocket as soon as possible, a few steps forward and your good as gold.
I also dialed in some tip time. Confidence came. All the way out on almost every wave. Twinkled all ten. Can’t complain. Chris and his kids came out. Mike, son of Chris, is a So-Flo surfer with curly hair and broad shoulders, who showed all of us how you're supposed to hang ten. Kid was all kinds of alright. When the wind picked up, three or maybe four hours in the future, we waited for one last wave before making our way back to the beach.
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