Some say it can take ten days to get down there. A hundred mile hike through a forbidden forest full of evergreens and eagles. Others say that you'll have to hold your breath for a half an hour, and that the only way out there is through a tree lined tunnel with big spinning razor blades on both sides - just like Indiana Jones. But it was worth it, that long walk to the water, because there were waist high waves at the other end. Beautiful blue-green water hills breaking alongside a big brown rock. With a smooth, sandy bottom just below the surface and a forest of black colored kelp on the outside.
This wave isn't like others, however. Blocked by an outcropping of rocks - atop which live KOOK eating creatures, or so they say - it breaks both ways; steep on the one side, soft and slow on the other. We surfed for four or five hours. Dropping in on each other, disregarding any and all etiquette. There were waves for everyone, though. And when the sun began to set and our fingers felt frozen, we started taking pictures with the waterproof camera Karissa acquired on accident. It was an excellent evening - surfing with my friends and my father near the end of the earth. Follow the link for a few more photos.
Headlands & Trees.
Sliding Swine.
Bumper.
Bottom's Up.
This-a-way.
Outside.
Easy Andy.
Lone Ranger.
Piggin' Out.
Malibu.
Whipper Snapper.
Inappropriate.
Big Foot.
Sun Down.
Pretty Pig.
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