"Most of the time you’re paddling or sitting, not surfing. Your skill and your wave knowledge is more important in getting into the waves and negotiating the crowds. It’s almost more important than how the board performs. If you can get into the wave, you’re going to have more fun because you’re getting more waves. But it’s not about catching as many waves as possible. It’s about progressing while being efficient at the same time. That’s my job. Get you on the board that will get you the most waves and help you have the most fun. Don’t be scared to be who you want to be as a surfer. Don’t let others push you in a direction that you don’t want to go in. Really go with what you believe in. Go with what in your heart you feel is right."
- Matt Calvani
Click here to read the SurfScience interview in its entirety.