There's certain people that I like to surf with. Stoked people. People that don't take shit too seriously. That enjoy the bad waves as much as the good ones. People that laugh those deep, honest laughs and smile those big, stupid smiles. People that don't say it sucks, even if it does, but instead suggest you surf, because maybe it'll suck more the next morning. Jeff Abandonato is one of those people. His energy is contagious. You can't help but smile when you surf with him. He's not extremely eager, but he's not a complacent person either. He'll catch more waves than most men, all while running back and forth from the beach to check on his children. People used to say that he must drink puppy blood, because his energy seemed endless.
I remember stumbling into his surf shop as a kid - I was all sorts of overzealous and idealistic - and there'd be Jeff, sitting behind the counter, chatting with all the weekend warriors and summer surfers, seemingly unaware of their kook like condition. He was honest, but knew how to keep a secret. He never naysayed other peoples opinions, but instead offered his own. Honestly, I'm not sure he's aware of the role he's played in my life. Because he helped me stay stoked at a time in my life when surfing came second, or third. He inspired me to smile more, to not take myself so seriously and to watch Star Wars on the weekends. Which is why surfing with him last Sunday was a long awaited opportunity to share the stoke he helped cultivate. I can only hope to inspire others the way he has inspired me.
Feeling Finny.
Small Stuff.
Stokesosaurus.
Jack Move.
Jackass.
Piggin' Out.
Greenage.
So Serious.
Ina.
Images come courtesy of
Steve Coryelle.
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