Early Examples

Short film shot by Bruce Brown and John Severson, brought to you by the Encyclopedia of Surfing.

Eddie Bauer's Cloud Layer Pro Fleece

My mother used to buy me a new fleece every winter when I was a kid. Outgrowing the one she'd purchased the year prior, I could always count on finding a new fleece wrapped and waiting beneath our Christmas tree. They varied by brand, color, fit and finish. I remember a certain brand-name being emblazoned across the front of one fleece - a feature of utmost importance at the time, as I would have almost certainly been a social outcast had I worn one without a logo. As time marched on however, the frequency of the Christmas fleece went from once a year to every so often. I was done growing, and to be perfectly honest, fleece wasn't what the kids were wearing anymore. But now, fifteen years in the future, a fuzzy fleece is just the thing I need to keep me warm in the winter.

Enter Eddie Bauer's Cloud Layer Pro Fleece. Made with Polartec's 5.5oz micro velour fleece, the Cloud Layer is designed to be both warm and lightweight, allowing you to layer if necessary. The 100% polyester velour construction used in Eddie Bauer's fleece creates air pockets that trap air and retain body heat, while also drying quickly and resisting pilling (funny little fleece balls). The Cloud Layer Pro Fleece is available as either a 1/4-zip pullover or a full-zip jacket, and comes in both men's and women's shapes and sizes.

Tycho

What I've been listening to lately...

Till You Can't Feel Your Feet

This is the time of year when I am supposed to be thankful for things. Friends, family, good food, a healthy heart, etc. It's easy to overlook all of the good shit I've got going on, though. Overwhelmed at times by a whole bunch of bullshit, bad people and even worse weather. But when I can step back for a second, you know, really digest some of this shit, it becomes apparent that I've got it really good. It's easy to complain, however. To want more or yearn for something other than what you've already acquired. The grass being greener and all that. And so I struggle. Like a lot of people I presume. Wanting what others own; a bigger van, a different sorta surfboard, some new shoes. Whatever it is. But when I stop to think, to take into account where I am at versus where I was, the desires disappear. Instead I smile, thinking about all the waves we had this weekend, the campfires and the cold beers, the offshore wind and the candid conversations. It was incredible. And I couldn't be more thankful. Because in the end, all the crap we've acquired won't matter that much. It'll be the experiences - daydreams and nightmares alike - that define who we are, or who we were.

Anna Ehrgott

Check out this fun little film featuring Anna Ehrgott and some of our favorite spots down south.

Topo Designs Cinch Tote

I've always been a fan of big bags. Something you can stuff a lot of... well... stuff into. Zippered pockets and separate sections on the inside of backpacks and bags can be cool, but sometimes what you really need is just an oversized sack of sorts. And so I was super stoked when I saw Topo Designs new Cinch Tote ($89), a tall 1000d Cordura creation featuring natural leather lash tabs, long nylon handles, a removable shoulder strap and pack cloth interior. There's a small zippered pocket on the front of the tote, as well as a wide sleeve-style pocket behind it. The top of the tote can be cinched shut to keep your shit secure, or you can stuff it inside to make everything easy to access. Like all of their equipment, the Cinch Tote is made in Topo Designs LEED certified building in Denver, Colorado. And for just $89, the Cinch Tote (which is available in four different color combos, btw) is a perfect replacement for that tattered old grocery tote you keep in the trunk of your car, or an excellent alternative to that big backpack you bring with you every weekend.

Fluctus Splitters

Check out this little trailer for a forthcoming 'Super 8' surf film made by Tristan Mausse.

Clara Ukulele

The Clara Ukulele is an innovative new instrument made from Ekoa, a combination of plant-based, environmentally friendly fabrics and bio-based resins that produces a responsiveness, stability and strength unlike anything else (or so they say). The Clara is built by Blackbird Guitars in San Francisco, CA, a company that has "spent the better part of a decade developing small, travel-friendly, carbon-fiber instruments with world class tone." The Clara is said to provide musicians with the experience of a vintage old-growth instrument in a lightweight, durable and sustainable package. Sounds good to me. Click here to learn more about (and listen to) Blackbird's Clara Ukulele.

Death Dagger

Mark Matisons surfing a Gato Heroi 'Death Dagger' on the west coast of Australia (via Wild Things).

All Men Dream

"All men dream, but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds, wake in the day to find that it was vanity: but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act on their dreams with open eyes, to make them possible."

- T.E. Lawrence

Whiskey Was The Word

I won't get into it all, but lets just say last week(end) was not wonderful. Two funerals, a lot of whiskey and some sleep left us exhausted come Sunday evening. We'd driven from Federal Way to Port Angeles following the second service and were eagerly anticipating our dinner date with Angel and Quinton. My mother was in town all week and traveled north with us on Sunday evening. After eating and drinking, we all took a seat in front of Angel's tiny television to watch Invasion! From Planet C for the umpteenth time. And while we drank whiskey and ginger syrup and talked about all the bad things that had happened that week, my mother tucked her self into Angel's refurbished guest room, and somehow slept through all of our silliness.

Monday morning we ate bagels for breakfast before heading west in search of surf. We skipped the first spot in favor of the second, and found two of our friends slipping out of their wetsuits as soon as we arrived. There were waves. Reasonably sized ones. But the tide was too high and the swell was reflecting off a steep shelf, creating that baby-in-a-bathtub effect. We paddled out anywhoo, and found a few fun ones. My mother snapped a some photos, poking her head out the passenger side of Fargo every few minutes as to avoid standing in the rain. We kept it short and sweet, donned the Cloak of Stoke and headed back toward Seattle sooner than I would have wanted. It was a rough week, but a salty dip in the sea made everything feel a bit better.

One Average Day

James Parry surfing small stuff on the other side of the earth. Brought to you by Ruwac Productions.

How Stanley Ficklefog Turned Into a Surf Troll

This is the story of Stanley Ficklefog. A once outgoing, somewhat sociable soul, Stanley (Stan to his friends and family) lived in a small city, just a few hours from the ocean. He'd always been interested in surfboarding waterhills. He’d seen it on the ol' television, and even tried it once or twice when the weather was nice. But it was not an important part of his life. Not then. Stan spent his time at house parties, in movie theaters, and at all sorts of sporting events. He also liked the ladies, and spent a great deal of his time in their company. Preoccupied, Stan was. And at that time surfboarding was just an activity for Mr. Ficklefog, not a passionate pursuit.

Then one day something happened. Something Stan never imagined. Visiting with friends in a faraway land, Stan had what some would call an epiphany. No longer did Stan feel burdened by his belongings or his relationships with both friends and family. Stan felt free for the first time. Now, I'm sure you're wondering how the hell this happened. What caused Stan to feel so free all of a sudden? Well, let me tell you a little bit more about our friend Mr.Ficklefog.

Space Ranger

What I've been listening to lately...

Bedazzled!

Goddamn we got it good! Saturday, out at the end, with wind blowing outta the east and a sliver of sun in the sky. We dragged our feet all the way out, stopping for snacks, checking some other spots, etc. Wish we wouldn't have waited. Oh well. You take what you can get this time of year. Fargo was full-up, with Karissa and Angel up front, and Zoe and I buried in the back with four boards and six wetsuits. Cold beer from the cooler and a warm shower followed three or four hours in the ocean. It was crowded by comparison. Some Stand Up Paddle people, a few friends and a collection of kooks on the inside. We drove back after dark, ate dinner at Angel's, drank whiskey and apple cider and passed out early. A text message woke me up Sunday morning. "Waist high and offshore." But by the time we ate breakfast, drank coffee and dragged our asses out there, the swell had died down a bit. Wind was still outta the south, though. I slipped into my suit and paddled out to the east. Karissa, who wasn't feeling well, stayed ashore and snapped a few photos. The waves and weather could have been better. I'm just glad we got it so good on Saturday.

Southern Sandbank

Matt Travis and Mike Lay surfing somewhere south of Cornwall. Shot and edited by John Eldridge.

10 Things To Do Before You're 30

Inspired by my friend Steve's recent blog post about the '17 Things To Do Before You're 40,' I thought I'd put together a similar sort of list, sans a decade. Now to be fair, I'm one year and six months away from my thirtieth birthday, but who's to say I can't suggest some shit you're supposed to do before you're done with your third decade?! Important shit in my opinion. So with that said, follow the link and take a look at the ten pre-thirty things I think you should try to achieve.

Pelican Pub's 'Bad Santa' Cascadian Dark Ale

The Pelican Pub & Brewery in Pacific City, OR is one of our favorite places to enjoy a beach side beverage. Sitting in the sand a short walk from the surf, the Pelican Pub offers a wide variety of ales, pales and IPAs, as well as an assortment of seasonal beers, including their 'Bad Santa' Cascadian Dark Ale. A dark brown beer with "good clarity and a roasted malt and earthy hop aroma," Bad Santa is bitter like a lot of the winter beers we've had, but features a maple syrup sort of flavor at the finish. Brewed with an abundance of Fuggle hops, this dark ale would pair well with clam chowder or chili. And while I can't say it was Karissa's favorite, I did notice our bottle of Bad Santa went bye-bye real fast ;)

You can find Pelican Pub's 'Bad Santa' Cascadian Dark Ale at Full Throttle Bottles.

The Kegel

Robin Kegel from Gato Heroi surfing at the Salinas Longboard Festival. Filmed by Jan Latussek.

L.L. Bean's Norwegian Crewneck

Some people wear sweaters. Wool ones. Warm ones. With a crewneck or some kind of shall collar, and big brown football buttons. I'm one of these people. Always have been. Look through the photos from my childhood and you'll see Cable-Knit and Ugly Christmas all over the place. Cardigans I could never get into, though. Maybe when I'm old(er) and don't care if it makes me feel like Fred Rogers. Or when all the skinny hipster shits stop wearing them. Anyhow, about this here sweater. I've always wanted one. My mother's fourth husband had one and I was always rather envious of it. Knit in Norway using 100% worsted wool yarn, this sweater features a traditional Scandinavian bird's eye pattern that will likely evoke a yearning for yesteryear. The crewneck is comfortable and will keep the cold air out, however the overall length is a little on the short side, as far as I'm concerned. Warm is an understatement, though. Two nights after I acquired it, I spent six hours beside a cold campfire wearing nothing more than the sweater, pants and a pair of slippers. I've worn it every weekend since. Now, they're not cheap ($139), but you get what you pay for. Click here to learn more about L.L. Bean's Norwegian Crewneck.

Dukes of Chutney

What I've been listening to lately. As seen heard on Indoek.

Fv25

A fantastic short film produced by Finisterre, highlighting the cold water surfing culture in the UK.

Sprinkle Frosted Cake Donuts

Apprehension: anxiety or fear that something bad or unpleasant will happen. Not sure why I felt that way. We found what we're always after; shoulder high sets, intervals, etc. I paddled out atop a Silver Spoon. But it was blue. Not the stick I usually surf. Sans leash. Long lines lay ahead, stretching across sand, standing up and then closing quickly. I paddled out to the east, drifted west, and surfed south. Soon I was surrounded by a handful of like-minded loggers. Solid surfers with a disposition different than what you'd normally encounter on the coast. Optimistic. Excited. We shared a few fun ones. Laughed when someone survived a section. Cringed when someone got stuck inside. I surfed like shit. Hungover from three too many martinis and two pieces of pumpkin pie. I couldn't keep it together. Balance was bullshit. Footwork fucked up. Timid at times. Oh well. We left early that afternoon. Obligations on the other side of the sound. Suppose I'll keep my fingers crossed for similar waves this weekend. And perhaps this time I'll skip the pie. Or maybe the martinis ;) Follow the link for a few more photos.

Indian Summer

Kameron Brown and Jon Arman enjoying So-Cal's Indian Summer. Brought to you by Rhythm Livin.

Surf Artists Anonymous

Limited edition t-shirt featuring original art by our friend and fellow van dweller, Todd Fischer. Men's crew neck shirts are available in medium, large and extra large sizes, while women's v-neck shirts are available in medium and large sizes. $20 plus $4.95 for shipping (or you can find them in Fargo). All of the proceeds from the sale of these shirts will go to support Todd's surf art habit. Click here to snag your shirt!