Apprehension: anxiety or fear that something bad or unpleasant will happen. Not sure why I felt that way. We found what we're always after; shoulder high sets, intervals, etc. I paddled out atop a
Silver Spoon. But it was blue. Not the stick I usually surf. Sans leash. Long lines lay ahead, stretching across sand, standing up and then closing quickly. I paddled out to the east, drifted west, and surfed south. Soon I was surrounded by a handful of like-minded loggers. Solid surfers with a disposition different than what you'd normally encounter on the coast. Optimistic. Excited. We shared a few fun ones. Laughed when someone survived a section. Cringed when someone got stuck inside. I surfed like shit. Hungover from three too many martinis and two pieces of pumpkin pie. I couldn't keep it together. Balance was bullshit. Footwork fucked up. Timid at times. Oh well. We left early that afternoon. Obligations on the other side of the sound. Suppose I'll keep my fingers crossed for similar waves this weekend. And perhaps this time I'll skip the pie. Or maybe the martinis ;) Follow the link for a few more photos.
Images come courtesy of
Karissa_Would.
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